Wednesday, December 21, 2011

Turin: Day One

Now that Rob and I are back in Athens with free internet we can post a few blogs about our experience in Turin (Torino). We had a great time, ate a lot of good food and chocolate, and met many wonderful people. Shhh, don't tell anybody though because the Torinesi don't want it to become the next tourist destination.

After departing from Paris via Charles de Gaulle we flew direct to Milan Malpensa and took a bus straight to Turin bypassing Milan completely. Unfortunately it was a hazy day and the mountain views we were hoping for during the bus ride didn't work out. After dropping our bags at the hotel we headed out for a pizza lunch followed by a visit to the city center known as Piazza Castello, in which you see the Palazzo Madama in the photo below.


Palazzo Madama houses the collections of the Museo Civico d'Arte Antica, Turin's municipal museum of ancient art. The name of the museum is a bit of a misnomer, as the collections also include medieval and renaissance art. As you can see from the picture it's an interesting building with a medieval back and tower with a Baroque facade on the front. From the tower we were able to see most of the city including Piazza Castello, which was being set up with a giant wooden nativity scene and advent calendar.


The Palazzo Madama also had a special exhibit going on that featured Michelangelo's Madonna col Bambino. The museum website succinctly describes the drawing as follows: "In this large sheet, Michelangelo expands on the theme of the Virgin nursing the Child, with touches of intense physicality suggested by the protective embrace of the mother and the energetic gesture of her son. This is a preparatory sketch, though we do not know which final work it was for. The Virgin is seen looking towards the right, as though attracted by some sudden event, possibly with a tinge of apprehension brought on by her fears for the destiny of her son. Some light touches of black chalk show how the artist changed his mind, with the head of the Virgin originally bent forward, her eyes looking down. The Child emerges in sculptural relief, in a contrast of dark shadows, strokes of red chalk and touches of white light."


After our afternoon at the museum we strolled west along Via Garibaldi, the major pedestrianized shopping street, all lit up for the holidays, and finished with dinner at a great local wine bar called Tre Galli to sample the local Barbera wine and Piedmont cuisine--think butter and polenta instead of olive oil. The weather and views would be better the next few days, so check back for further updates!

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